Novice to Novice

Novice to Novice ( Novice - synonymous with student )

What prompted you to finally decide to get some pigeons? Was it your observations of birds flying free, seemingly unrestricted by gravity, allowing your mind to soar with them? Or was it the iridescent colors of the feathers on the neck, the form of various show pigeons, or the competitive performance of some flying breeds? Whatever the reason, you will need some housing for the birds you wish to acquire.

The Loft:

Although the lofts may differ due to specific aspects of the breed in question, all good lofts have some things in common:

Birds housed in a good loft are healthy because:
- There is enough fresh air which supplies the all-essential oxygen needed by the bird's metabolism. Since pigeons have a higher rate of metabolism than we do, they consequently need more fresh air. Lack of fresh air results in chronic respiratory disease (CRD), the manifestations of which are, among others, grey and "dirty" wattles instead of the chalky - white ones of healthy birds. The solution to CRD is not the administration of antibiotics although this may result in temporary relief. However, this method of action would also result in the destruction of the intestinal flora which is so essential for the development and maintenance of general immunity. The solution lies rather in the elimination of the cause - the elimination of lack of fresh air. I have never seen "dirty" wattles in this loft which allows plenty of fresh air.
- There is enough space for each bird. The more crowded the loft, the more easily diseases spread and the less likely there is enough fresh air available. I like to have at least 3 ft² (or 0.3 m²) floor space per bird and more would be desirable. There is also the psychological aspect to consider as animals do not respond well to being crowded together. Just like us they also have their "interpersonal distance".
- Rodents are kept out. Signs like these should raise alarm bells for every fancier. The problem is not the amount of feed eaten by this vermin but the droppings left behind. Once dried they will be consumed by birds just like any other small seed.
- Temperature variations are kept to a minimum through the use of insulation. Some fanciers go so far as to heat the air entering the loft and are rewarded through excellent flying performances by their birds. The inside temperature is not allowed to fall below 15°C.
- The humidity inside the loft is also controlled and prevented from too much variation. However, like heating the air, such measures are used mainly by those fanatic about their birds' performances. Health can be achieved and maintained without humidity and temperature control.
Ventilation is adjustable, allowing the fancier to control it depending on the weather outside.
The loft interior is kept dry. All pathogenic micro-organisms require water to survive and propagate. A dry interior will therefore prevent them from multiplying.
Windows facing south will allow sufficient light to enter the loft. Perhaps they can even be opened to allow the sun and fresh air to gain free access to the loft interior.
An attached aviary where the birds can safely sun themselves is an asset.
- However, predators must be prevented from gaining access to the loft. The mesh covering aviaries has to be small enough to keep sparrows (just a nuisance factor) out and sturdy enough so that more insistent predators such as racoons and the like cannot destroy it. Here we have an aviary covered with stucco wire. While strong enough the mesh is too large to prevent this weasel from getting inside.
Enough perches and/or nest boxes can be fixed to a wall so that the new arrivals feel welcome and can make such a loft into their home.

Feed, Water, Grit, Minerals:

Now that the birds have arrived you gained the responsibility of caring for them.

fresh grit so that their gizzard can grind the supplied grains
I like Korell grit as it consists of an assortment of various stones, among them red stones which color the droppings reddish brown after the gizzard ground them up
oyster shells as a source of calcium needed by bones and egg shells
a source of table salt, essential especially for growing youngsters
minerals
fresh water at least once per day. I like to add 2 tsp lactose to a liter of water as this has been shown to decrease the likelihood of Salmonella typhimurium) to infect a bird.

They will also need to be fed at least once per day. I think that there is consensus that proper pigeon feed consists of a large variety of grains, such as various peas, vetch, beans, barley, wheat, milo, corn, safflower, small seeds found in wild bird mixes, rice, and so on. Feeding a mixture rather than a single grain has the advantage that the protein in the various grains becomes more complete because a grain deficient in a limiting amino acid is likely abundant in another grain. I also prefer to

germinate a portion of this mixture as this process changes and

transforms some of the grain's ingredients.
We like the feed mixture we decided upon but how much should we feed? The easiest way would be to fill up the feed trough but we decided against this method because we abhor fat birds. Some fanciers feed on a clean floor and throw down the grains until a couple of birds go to the drinker. This would be the signal for stopping to feed. The Janssen brothers had a table in their loft upon which they fed the birds and anyone observing them noticed how they "weighed" the quantity of feed in their hands. Some other well known fanciers would want "POISON" written on the feed tin, again an indication of how much they abhor over-feeding. Dean Pallet of Great Britain weighs the feed for his young birds and gives 35 grams per bird per day.

Winter Time: 20 - 25 grams
Breeding Period: the quantity depends on the youngsters in the nest
Racing Period: not to exceed 25 grams
Moulting Time: 10 - 15 grams twice per day

Feeding 30 - 35 grams per bird per day seems to be ample and yet will give complete control when it comes to calling in the birds from their exercise period although even this amount is too much according to that Belgian Champion. Since not everyone has the ability to feed the birds correctly it would be advisable to copy someone who has shown that the birds under his management perform well.
Suppose that one does not need control as the birds are locked up for the winter. Why not let them eat as much as the like? Please have a look at

these droppings. Instinctively we'd like to reach for some antibiotics because poor droppings like these must surely be a sign of disease - coccidiosis perhaps?
Instead, I cut back on the quantity of feed and here are

the droppings of the same bird 2 days later. Simple measures work quite well at times. Another reason why droppings become more watery at times is excitement but can also be a sign of too little feed which would result in the birds filling their crops with droppings and lead to the production of excess mucus. Still, my eyes always check the droppings as I enter a loft because the droppings are a barometer of the birds' health. Droppings should be firm and

sprinkled with some down. The presence of these white fluffs of feathers is very important and is a testament to the health of the bird. I have never had pigeons capable of good performances without this down but do not know exactly of why this should be so.
But back to the amount of feed to give to the pigeons: too much of it can certainly be likened to poison and I personally need to weigh the amount I put into

the troughs as I find it difficult to withhold feed. It is now the beginning of December, 2003 in Alberta/Canada and my birds are getting 50 gm/bird/day but they still attack me when I come to feed them in the morning. Perhaps that is too much or is a sign of some

deficiency of vitamin B₁₂, for example. Picking them up and "weighing" them in my hands tells me that they are not fat. They obviously need more feed in this climate than in Belgium. I also use a wire floor which prevents any spilled grain to be picked up by a bird.
Nevertheless, droppings are usually not the "poison"some fanciers believe them to be. If the consumption of droppings by pigeons were that detrimental, the species would no longer exist. And without coprophagy, internal parasites like worms and coccidia would soon die out. Although we may be able, I even doubt this, to keep the loft interior immaculately clean of any droppings all the time, we cannot hope to keep the roof and all outside structures free of any droppings and pigeons do

eat their droppings, even after having been fed as much as they would like to eat.
Our birds must derive some benefit from this behavior or they would not do this and the problem I see with it is that these droppings may contain worm eggs or Salmonella bacteria. Since it is usually one's own birds these droppings come from, it is advisable to keep ones own birds free of worms through the periodic use of some effective anthelmintic such as ivermection or levamisole. It would be preferable to use them in rotation. Salmonella can be kept at bay through the continuous use of

lactose and the use of effective

probiotics.

The Bath:

If you are using Conqueror drinkers, very easy for the youngsters to get used to, you may soon find the youngsters to

try and take a bath in said drinker. Offering a bath to the birds may not be essential but they derive so much psychological pleasure from it that baths at biweekly intervals (except in freezing weather) is advised, especially that much can be learned about the condition of individual birds. An ailing bird will not bathe while healthy pigeons will just love to do so. Bath water can also be used to fight lice and other external parasites by adding 3 ml Ivomec® Drench for Sheep per gallon of bath water.

A bath tub can be easily constructed from ¾" plywood, some 2"X4", corroplast and caulking.
This allowed me to make it large enough to allow almost all of them to have a bath at the same time.

Here they bathe at - 2°C in the morning which will allow them to dry all day while the temperature is expected to be above freezing.

Conclusion

Whichever breed you decided to keep, NEVER EVER forget to enjoy them. If you decided for an exhibition breed, remember that any judgment during an exhibition is only the opinion of a person. If, on the other hand, you fancy sporting breeds, remember not to forget that it is the pigeon who performed and not you. Although management is important, it would all be for naught without the athletic qualities of the pigeons you are privileged to care for. Become or remain humble and, please, do not forget to enjoy caring for our feathered friends.

This page was last up-dated on January 4, 2004

Below are your comments:

Sunday January 4, 2004 Robert Lynch Tifton,, GA, USA 207.69.75.252	The article might be for the novice, but it helps those of us who have been in the sport for a while to refocus on the basics. Very good article. Bob Lynch
Monday August 30, 2004 Mari Whitmer Crosses, AR 130.184.49.18	I enjoyed reading all the information on your website. Very helpful for someone researching whether further to pursue the keeping of pigeons. Thanks.
Wednesday September 15, 2004 Daniel Teng El Monte, California, USA 66.121.246.195	Thank you for your website which is very helpfull for me to understand the pigeons life. I do not intend to raise pigeons for racing, but I just want to rescue those falling into my backyard, injured or sick. Can you add some more info on the pigeons sicknesses, their symtomes, how to cure them and where can I get/buy the apprpriate medecine. I try to cure them on my own, because I can not afford to bring them to a vet. Thank you !
Wednesday September 22, 2004 LeAnn Rhinehart Valley Springs, Ca. 198.81.26.46	I have gotten a lot from your article. I have been battling loose droppings for months now & have tried everything. I am going to cut back on feed & see if it helps. Thank you.
Saturday September 25, 2004 Freddy Soto Brooklyn, New York 205.188.116.139	Hello My name is freddy but they call me BIRDMAN.. Anyway iam writing to you because iam a beginner to the pigeon world an I use news paper on my pigeon loft floor but its becoming a pain an i wanted to know what would be the most easyiest way to keep a pigeon loft kleen.. my loft is 5x6 an another 5x7 ft an some times i dont know what to do... So can you please help me...thank you .. If you wnt i can send you a picture of my loft so you can get a better picture of it an it can help you out a little better...Bye for now...
Wednesday November 3, 2004 sa�d lemjimer Morocoo, Kenitra 81.192.44.142	bonjour, C'est avec un grand plaisire donner mon avis sur c'set merveilleuses et exellents texte,. Mercie de nous informer sur ses sujets. votre ami sa�d
Sunday February 6, 2005 Munir Din lahore, Pakistan 216.236.220.221	Hello. i am Munir Din and i really enjoyed reading through your site. It was very Informative. I would be grateful if u could recommend some vitamins or steroids to improve the stamina of racing pigeons and some minerals or herbs to help birds recover immediately from the exhaustion of their flight.this is so that the birds can fly the folowing day with the same performance as we fly the birds on alternative days of the week.
Sunday June 3, 2007 Mac McSweeney Landenberg, PA 71.224.4.14	I too, am a "newbie" and truely appreciated all the advice. I really would like some more info on loft construction. Also would like some more affordable homer prices...........Mac :)
Thursday May 22, 2008 Marius Jonker Port Elizabeth, South Africa, Eastern Cape 196.2.124.254	A great site! Give us more - add more details! Especially on probiotics and enterococcus bacterium!
Tuesday November 11, 2008 mahmoud naimpour Ancaster, ontario 65.92.232.80	YOUR WEBSITE WAS EXELLENT (M�SS�LLA)

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